1996 Christian Lacroix Black Orange Lace Corset Dress

This striking corset dress was designed by Christian Lacroix for his Spring 1996 ready to wear collection. The same distinctive floral-embroidered mesh appeared on the Spring 1996 Haute Couture runway in the form of fitted pencil skirts, and we have included images of these above. The dress brings together all of Lacroix’s design philosophy: a tightly corseted bodice, richly worked fabric, a sharply defined waist and generous volume.

Christian Lacroix is one of the designers I most enjoy buying for Circa Vintage, and over the years we have built a particularly strong collection of his work. I am always pleased to find pieces like this that show just how technically accomplished his clothes were beneath all the colour and drama. This is an especially good example of him translating his haute couture for a collection aimed at the boutique market and his clothes are all so well made from this period.

The dress is tailored from black mesh densely embroidered with large bronze-orange flowers, creating a rich contrast between the dark ground and vivid blooms. The strapless corset bodice has a sweetheart neckline and is boned through the sides and back to create a closely fitted, sculpted shape. Black lace trims the neckline, front panel and seams, further emphasising the corsetry.

A pointed basque extends over the skirt at the front, drawing additional attention to the waist. Below, the skirt opens into a full, rounded silhouette, constructed with a layer of crisp taffeta beneath the embroidered mesh so that it holds its shape beautifully. The dress is lined throughout in grey-gold taffeta and fastens at the back with a concealed tonal zip. It falls to roughly knee length.

In excellent vintage condition, looks barely worn with no issues of any note. It is composed of 60% viscose and 40% cotton, with a lining of 55% acetate and 45% cupro. Labelled a French size 38, but the corseted bust runs small and we believe it is better suited in modern sizing to approximately a UK 8 or US 4 and smaller. The fabric has no stretch. Please refer to the sizing information below to ensure the best fit.

Notes on Designer: Christian Lacroix established his eponymous Paris couture house in 1987 after a celebrated period designing haute couture for Jean Patou. His arrival made an immediate impact, with his exuberant use of colour, pattern, historical references and elaborate decoration offering a striking alternative to the more restrained fashion of the period. Ready-to-wear followed in 1988, translating the energy of his couture into more wearable pieces.

Although the original fashion house ceased producing couture in 2009, Lacroix’s influence remains considerable. His fearless approach to colour, theatrical proportion and historical reference helped define the exuberance of late twentieth-century fashion, and his work is now represented in major museum collections and increasingly sought after by collectors.

MEASUREMENTS

BUST - 30 in. (76 cm)

WAIST - 28 in. (71 cm)

HIP - 56 in. (142 cm)

LENGTH - 34 in. (86 cm)