1950s Henry A La Pensée Haute Couture Navy Ribbonwork Skirt Suit

Henry à la Pensée was once a famous French couturier who founded his fashion house in Paris at the end of the 19th century. Located at 3 and 5 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré, the House specialized in accessories (scarves, bags, and jewelry) and hand knits until 1943, when they introduced "a couture collection of well-tailored suits and dresses. Ingrid Bergman was a well known client and various French and European nobility shopped there for the 'sports chic' look. The business closed in the 1960s and good couture pieces such as this are now rare to market.

I think this ensemble likely dates to the early 1950s and is made up of a midcalf-length skirt and short-sleeve blouse. The fabric demonstrates the brand’s incredible craftsmanship; dark navy crochet is adorned with elaborate lighter blue silk ribbon work detailing that forms horizontal stripes across the length of the top and skirt. The top is cut to a relaxed silhouette. It has a ribbon work collar and fastens down the front with blue plastic buttons with a textured surface. It is lined with a very lightweight navy silk crepe which has a sheer finish. The skirt is high-waisted and also lined in the navy silk crepe. It fastens at the back of the waist with a tonal zip and hook-and-eye clasp. The waist is lined in navy grosgrain ribbon.

This two-piece ensemble is in very good to excellent vintage condition and can be worn with care. She presents beautifully. I noted a small gap in the crochet on the right-hand shoulder. There are a couple of barely discernible and well executed repairs that have been caried out in-house to preserve the garments. The fabric has no stretch and I think the suit would be a good fit for sizes UK 10-12 or US 6-8 with a smaller waist.

MEASUREMENTS TOP

BUST - 42 in. (107 cm)

WAIST - 38 in. (97 cm)

HIP - 40 in. (102 cm)

LENGTH - 22 in. (56 cm)

MEASUREMENTS SKIRT

WAIST - 28 in. (71 cm)

HIP - 44 in. (112 cm)

LENGTH - 29 in. (73 cm)