1950s Jacques Esterel Haute Couture Blue Linen Dress Suit
Mid 1950s French haute couture Jacques Esterel dress suit. A textured, French blue loose knit silk/linen blend with a striking, white over-stitched arrangement that highlights the neckline, arm holes on the dress, waistband and cuffs. The dress has French darting on the bodice and the skirt is slightly flared to just below the knee. The back of the dress has a lower V back and it fastens with a rear central seamed zip hidden underneath a little bow. The jacket is a cropped double-breasted design and paler blue wooden buttons for decoration. With a belted waist, wide lapels and three quarter length sleeves, both pieces are fully lined in a blue satin. The bottom hem of the dress is weighted and with a very generous allowance of over 4 1/2 in or 12 cm. As it has been only gently pressed, it could be lengthened if desired.
In very good to excellent condition for its age and displays beautifully - very Audrey Hepburn! We note on very close inspection that there is colour variation across the shoulders - this is very, very slight indeed on the jacket only. The belt buckle fabric has darkened with age, again very minor but could be recovered with matching fabric from the seam allowance if desired. The dress has a very slight colour variation towards the bottom hem on the front which is very difficult to see and only in certain lights. Some fraying to a seam on the lining which of course is not visible. Of note, it's a very petite size and we estimate that this dress is a size UK 6-8 or US 2-4 and would proportionally suit someone under 5'5". Our model is this size and height and this fit her well.
We've been rather conservative on describing this outfit but its very wearable and a remarkable design by a couturier of great note. Under the presidency of Charles de Gaulle, Esterel was appointed designer of the presidents wife, Yvonne de Gaulle. His most prominent clients were Sophia Loren, Queen Fabiola of Belgium, Mamie Eisenhower and Gloria Swanson.
MEASUREMENTS
DRESS
Bust - 34 in. (86.4 cm)
Waist - 24 in. (61 cm)
Hip - 32 in. (81.3 cm)
Length - 40 in. (101.6 cm)
Shoulders - 14.5 in. (36.8 cm)
JACKET
Bust - 36 in. (91.4 cm)
Waist - 30 in. (76.2 cm)
Hip - N/A
Length - 19 in. (48.3 cm)
Shoulders - 17 in. (43.2 cm)
Pickup available at CIRCA VINTAGE
Usually ready in 24 hours
F.A.Q.
Where can I find more information about this item?
We are more than happy to answer any questions you may have about any item on our site. Please get in touch at shop@circavintage.com or on +44 (0)20 7365053.
Will you set anything aside for me for my appointment?
We are happy to find anything you may be interested in from our website. We have an extensive offline collection. It is helpful if you can let us know your size, style, favourite colour to wear and perhaps your budget in advance of your appointment.
Do I need to bring anything to my appointment?
Clients may wish to bring modern shapewear. You may also wish to bring favourite footwear. We often find a classic pair of nude shoes work well when trying-on, or gold and silver. We have a huge variety of slip dresses and petticoats to complete your look. Many of which are also for sale.
Do you have a price range at the showroom?
Many of our lower priced pieces, under £250, are not available to buy online. Dresses usually start at £150 and go up to £30,000 for the very best archival couture. Our bridalwear price points range from £1,000 to £20,000.
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Where can I have my circa garment altered?
We offer some alterations in house. Should you need alterations we cannot provide, we can refer you to one of our tried and trusted tailors.
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We will advise you on the best way to clean and preserve your vintage purchases and can also recommend trusted local dry cleaners.
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Upon arrival, buzz the 87A button on the gate or call us 020 7736 5038 to let you in.
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What is archival fashion?
Archival fashion refers to historically significant designer garments preserved for their cultural, aesthetic, or technical importance. At Circa, archival fashion includes couture archive pieces, runway garments, early designer work, and museum-quality vintage that document the evolution of fashion history.
How is archival fashion different from vintage?
While vintage typically describes clothing over 20 years old, archival vintage is selected for its rarity, provenance, and relevance to a designer’s archive or fashion history. Circa specialises in archival pieces rather than general vintage.