1985 Chanel Haute Couture Purple Tweed Velvet Three-Piece Suit


This is an early Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel haute couture ensemble from Fall 1985 and numbered '64851'. Couture clients often request bespoke adaptations from the runway presentations but this appears to be the exact suit shown in the picture. The tweed is lovely and thick with a great weight to it, in an oversized houndstooth pattern in shades of purple, white and black. It is cut in an 80s box fit style and lined with purple silk, complete with bold shoulder padding. It has a notched collar and dropped sleeves, each finished with a rolled back gathered cuff finish and concealed button closure. The inside hem is weighed down with a sewn in gold chain - a signature Chanel trait. The jacket features four patch pockets, also lined in purple silk and finished with gold plated copper 'coin' buttons, each stamped with Coco Chanel's profile and 'Coco Chanel, Paris, France'. The rear section features a thick waist cinch, trimmed with a button at each end which allows the jacket to hang beautifully and tapers the waist ever so slightly to create a streamlined look.

The inner tunic is cut in a sumptuous purple velvet and we initially believed that this may have been a separate piece from the same collection. Having researched and reviewed the whole collection, we now feel that the three were originally intended to be worn together, but work equally well worn separately. The tunic has a simple rounded neckline with dropped sleeves and narrowed cuffs just like the exterior jacket. Each cuff has three gold coated copper buttons and the tunic fastens down the back with alternating coin buttons and popper fastenings. The front has two breast patch pockets, each also finished with a coin button. It is fitted at the waist and flares out slightly from the hip, in an almost peplum like shape whilst the lining is in a deep plum coloured silk crepe.

The skirt has a wide purple silk waistband, incredibly soft to wear, and transitions into tweed from around the hip point, fastening at the side with a zip and hook and eye closure. It is cut in a very traditional pencil shape, and designed with the jacket in mind - the extended waistband ensures that the skirt, tunic and jacket meet at the perfect point when worn together as an ensemble.

All three pieces are in fabulous vintage condition, all couture labelled and with no observable marks or flaws. Though the jacket is oversized, the small size of the skirt waistband makes it most suitable for up to a size 8 UK, or 4 US. Our model is a UK 8-10 and 5ft 11in (180 cm), the jacket fit her well, the skirt and top fit her well. 


WAIST: 25 in. ( 63.5 cm )
HIP: 35 in. ( 88.9 cm )
LENGTH: 24.5 in. ( 62.23 cm )

BUST: 42 in. ( 106.68 cm )
WAIST: 40 in. ( 101.6 cm )
SHOULDER: 19 in. ( 48.26 cm )
HIP: 40 in. ( 101.6 cm )
LENGTH: 31 in. ( 78.74 cm )

BUST: 35 in. ( 88.9 cm )
WAIST: 27 in ( 68.58 cm )
HIP: 38 in. ( 96.52 cm )
SHOULDER: 17 in. ( 43.18 cm )

Pickup available at CIRCA VINTAGE

Usually ready in 24 hours


Will you set anything aside for me before I come?

We are happy to find anything you may be interested in from our website - please let us know a week in advance. 

We also have an extensive offline collection. If you let us know your size, style, favourite colour to wear and perhaps your budget, we can browse through our archive in advance of your appointment. 

Do I need to bring anything with me?

Clients may wish to bring modern shapewear when trying on garments from certain eras, especially the 1950s. Vintage clothing was often worn with undergarments that shaped the waist and as such is tailored for them.

We have a huge variety of slip dresses and petticoats to complete your look; many of which are also for sale.

You may also wish to bring your favourite footwear. We often find a classic pair of nude shoes work well when trying on, or a pair in gold or silver.

Do you have a price range?

Many of our lower-priced pieces (under £150) are not available to buy online. Our prices range from £80 - £600 for separates. Dresses start at around £150 and go up to £2,500 for the very best antique pieces and designer vintage. Our bridalwear ranges from £300 - £3,000.

Can I bring anyone with me?

Yes but please do let us know the size of your party in advance.

Where can I get alterations?

We offer some alterations in house. Should you need alterations we cannot provide, we can refer you to one of our tried and trusted tailors.

Do you have an after-care service?

We will advise you on the best way to clean and preserve your vintage pieces and can also recommend trusted local dry cleaners.

Can I cancel my appointment?

You are free to cancel but please do give us as much notice as possible. If you cancel less than 24 hours before your appointment, you will be invoiced a late cancellation fee of £25.

Where's the showroom?

Our address is Circa Vintage, 87A Lansdowne Way London SW8 2PB

Upon arrival, buzz the 87A button on the gate or call us 020 7736 5038 to let you in.

Do you have parking?

We offer free, secure, off-street parking but it is a tight squeeze – so do let us know in advance if you will be needing this and we can make sure that there is space available.

How do I get there by public transport?


Stockwell (7 min walk) - Northern and Victoria Lines

Nine Elms (9 min walk) – Northern Line


Wandsworth Road (13 min walk) – Westbound to Clapham Junction / Eastbound to Dalston Junction

What payment methods do you accept?

Cash, credit/debit card, bank transfer, contactless, Paypal