1983 Chanel Gold 4-Strand Chain Belt with Lion and CC Medallions
This striking Chanel belt dates to the Spring Advance 1983 collection, the season now termed Cruise or Resort. We have found a near-identical example documented with this collection, whose jewellery was designed by Eva Compocasso. It dates from the very beginning of Karl Lagerfeld’s tenure at Chanel and is an unusually early example of the elaborate multi-strand chain belts that would become increasingly important to the house throughout the 1980s and 1990s.
Almost certainly gold-plated, the belt is constructed from substantial curb chain and has an unusual four-row arrangement across the front, with each strand graduating in length to create a layered drape over the waist. Circular medallions mark the points where the chains meet, each embossed with a sculptural lion’s head. The lion was a longstanding Chanel motif and a reference to Gabrielle Chanel’s zodiac sign, Leo.
A longer single chain falls from one side and terminates in a large lion medallion, with the interlocking Chanel double-C logo embossed on the reverse. The belt fastens by hooking through this chain, allowing the length and amount of drape to be adjusted. The substantial hook is discreetly signed “CHANEL” in small capital letters. Chain belts became progressively heavier and more exuberant through the later 1980s and 1990s, frequently incorporating increasingly oversized coins, medallions and house motifs, making this early design a fascinating precursor to the style now so closely associated with Lagerfeld-era Chanel.
The belt is in very good, verging on excellent, vintage condition. The chains retain their rich gold finish with no notable wear. There is some light tarnishing to the lion side of the largest medallion, consistent with age, but this does not detract when worn. This is very flexible in terms of sizing due to the adjustable hook fastening and could even be worn as a necklace.
MEASUREMENTS
LENGTH - 39 in. (99 cm)
COIN DIAMETER - 1 in. (2.5 cm)
PENDANT DIAMETER - 1.2 in. (3 cm)
Pickup available at CIRCA VINTAGE
Usually ready in 24 hours
F.A.Q.
Where can I find more information about this item?
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We are happy to find anything you may be interested in from our website. We have an extensive offline collection. It is helpful if you can let us know your size, style, favourite colour to wear and perhaps your budget in advance of your appointment.
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Clients may wish to bring modern shapewear. You may also wish to bring favourite footwear. We often find a classic pair of nude shoes work well when trying-on, or gold and silver. We have a huge variety of slip dresses and petticoats to complete your look. Many of which are also for sale.
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We offer some alterations in house. Should you need alterations we cannot provide, we can refer you to one of our tried and trusted tailors.
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We will advise you on the best way to clean and preserve your vintage purchases and can also recommend trusted local dry cleaners.
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Our address is Circa Vintage, 87A Lansdowne Way London SW8 2PB
Upon arrival, buzz the 87A button on the gate or call us 020 7736 5038 to let you in.
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What is archival fashion?
Archival fashion refers to historically significant designer garments preserved for their cultural, aesthetic, or technical importance. At Circa, archival fashion includes couture archive pieces, runway garments, early designer work, and museum-quality vintage that document the evolution of fashion history.
How is archival fashion different from vintage?
While vintage typically describes clothing over 20 years old, archival vintage is selected for its rarity, provenance, and relevance to a designer’s archive or fashion history. Circa specialises in archival pieces rather than general vintage.