ARCHIVE - 1980s Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture Brooch Detail Black Evening Dress

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This is an exceptionally fine 1980s haute couture velvet column dress that features an elaborate stomacher jewel which is sewn into the sweetheart bodice. The stomacher jewel features a very large faceted faux citrine stone with pave set diamantes on silvered metal. Three articulated drops each feature the famous "Braque Dove" motif first used by Saint Laurent in 1983 and appearing in numerous collections throughout the decade. Fully marked to the rear with the designer's initials, there is no doubt that this was made by Robert Goossens for the House and is a whopping 13cm by 8cm. It is possible this jewel is from the YSL Spring / Summer 1988 Braque collection.

The dress in contrast is wonderfully understated and elegant with flawless construction. It's Princess seams hug every inch of the torso and the tailoring is shaped to perfection from top to toe. The internal structure is magnificent and as you would expect from the finest haute couture. There is an integral tulle and grosgrain support structure akin to a basque with wool protectors for the bust to provide shaping. A second zip is hidden inside the dress with additional support coming from a grosgrain under bust strap and a waist strap. The dress, of note, is unlabeled save for a couture client or model label with an indistinct name and number. Having worked with haute couture for many years, and owning a large collection of this designer's work, I am confident that this dress is from a Yves Saint Laurent collection. The designer used this bustier style of dress extensively during this period and it is most unlikely that a stomacher jewel, actually sewn onto the dress, would be for anything other than a haute couture gown. We also feature a runway shot of a very young Naomi Campbell wearing a taffeta dress with an identical jewel on the runway.

In pristine vintage condition with no faults of any note. It has clearly only been worn a handful of times and was used as part of the wardrobe of a feature film by the lead actress which we attach to show the fit. Best for a UK size 6, US 2 or sample size.

Gown with integral corset:

Bust - 31 in (78.7 cm)
Waist - 25 in (63.5 cm)
Hip - 34 in (86.4 cm)
Length - 54 in (137.2 cm)
Shoulders - FREE

Pickup currently unavailable at CIRCA VINTAGE


Will you set anything aside for me before I come?

We are happy to find anything you may be interested in from our website - please let us know a week in advance. 

We also have an extensive offline collection. If you let us know your size, style, favourite colour to wear and perhaps your budget, we can browse through our archive in advance of your appointment. 

Do I need to bring anything with me?

Clients may wish to bring modern shapewear when trying on garments from certain eras, especially the 1950s. Vintage clothing was often worn with undergarments that shaped the waist and as such is tailored for them.

We have a huge variety of slip dresses and petticoats to complete your look; many of which are also for sale.

You may also wish to bring your favourite footwear. We often find a classic pair of nude shoes work well when trying on, or a pair in gold or silver.

Do you have a price range?

Many of our lower-priced pieces (under £150) are not available to buy online. Our prices range from £80 - £600 for separates. Dresses start at around £150 and go up to £2,500 for the very best antique pieces and designer vintage. Our bridalwear ranges from £300 - £3,000.

Can I bring anyone with me?

Yes but please do let us know the size of your party in advance.

Where can I get alterations?

We offer some alterations in house. Should you need alterations we cannot provide, we can refer you to one of our tried and trusted tailors.

Do you have an after-care service?

We will advise you on the best way to clean and preserve your vintage pieces and can also recommend trusted local dry cleaners.

Can I cancel my appointment?

You are free to cancel but please do give us as much notice as possible. If you cancel less than 24 hours before your appointment, you will be invoiced a late cancellation fee of £25.

Where's the showroom?

Our address is Circa Vintage, 87A Lansdowne Way London SW8 2PB

Upon arrival, buzz the 87A button on the gate or call us 020 7736 5038 to let you in.

Do you have parking?

We offer free, secure, off-street parking but it is a tight squeeze – so do let us know in advance if you will be needing this and we can make sure that there is space available.

How do I get there by public transport?


Stockwell (7 min walk) - Northern and Victoria Lines

Nine Elms (9 min walk) – Northern Line


Wandsworth Road (13 min walk) – Westbound to Clapham Junction / Eastbound to Dalston Junction

What payment methods do you accept?

Cash, credit/debit card, bank transfer, contactless, Paypal